Expert Point of View!
I am introducing a series of articles that will, overall, create an in-depth guide to help professionals in building the right and efficient wardrobe. I intend to bring you innovative and exclusive menswear wardrobe building techniques and to help you to use it correctly with maximum efficiency, and on end, I will show you the weather to build the entire wardrobe at once or individual suit or occasional purchasing.
The suit is not a simple outfit for business people; it is part of the professionals business tools, today everyone knows the importance of right outfit in personal branding, social life and impact of that on business success. Professionals need to see the wardrobe as an essential and necessary investment for last long because each item purchased with the plan will be with them for a minimum ten years. How you pay attention to choosing a partner or friends, you need to pay the same level attention when you are selecting clothing for your wardrobe.
Before to purchase any suits for your wardrobe, you need to know all available options and educate yourself to make the best investment plan to build your wardrobe at once or step by step with a clear plan for your needs. Your focus point should be to select the classic style and high-quality products for last long, right color and best possible fit for better presents and look and most important for excellent comfort. Before to go in depth, we need to understand available options and how to distinguish and benefit and drawbacks of each.
- Ready to Wear or Off the Rack (R.T.W.)
- Made to Order (M.T.O.)
- Custom Made (C. M.) | Made to Measure (M.T.M.) | Su Misura (same meaning)
By learning and distinction between above terms and knowledge, you could save a significant amount of money and time on your shopping and will obtain the best possible suit for your wardrobe and each purchased piece will be chosen with a clear plan and will have an essential role in your closet and on your lifestyle.
Ready to Wear or Off the Rack (R.T.W)
Ready to wear is a garment that suit makers or designers using standard pattern which it’s builds the based on specific geographical and zonal average men’s body shape and sizes, the shape and size of these ready patterns will differ substantially from one zone to other. For example, X designer suits made for Spain will vary significantly with the same designer suits made for US market.
One of the reasons many online shoppers having a difficult time with the fit of the same designer products is pattern factor which the RTW suits are moving from one place to other, for that reason RTW suits lost this crucial element of its value. It is one of the reasons I do not recommend online shopping for menswear.
Suit makers and designers manufacturing RTW suits, and you have access to them in Menswear stores; you can try it on and purchase it. It’s intended to worn immediately and hence; you do not need to wait to make for you. It’s undoubtedly the easiest way to shop. But, the chance to find the right fit for professionals in RTW suits is too low because these suits are made to serve everyone which in reality is impossible, we all are different and have a different body shape. R.T.W suits may be suitable for who has symmetrical body shape, which no human being has symmetrical body shape, by having an alteration you will get more worse on your jacket. Some people think it fits, but usually, they’re just not educated enough to see the flaws in the garment.
The fit is not only future you should pay attention, but you also need to verify the following crucial details when you are purchasing the RTW suits:
- The jacket is made in full canvased; half canvased or fused; the fused option is not for professionals even as it fits well.
- Machine or handmade
- The amount and quality of the hand craftsmanship involved in the manufacturing of the suit. Regular machine-made suits make in less than 3 hours, but handmade bespoke suits need minimum 50 hours of artistry work.
- Buttons and buttonholes quality, buttons Should be Shell or horn,
- The lining should be Bemberg or silk or the mix of both.
You should try it on and buy if it fits well or needs minor alterations. Otherwise, I do not recommend to purchase the RTW suits when requiring significant modification. Here are some of the significant adjustments:
- When need to modify the jacket shoulder shape or sizes, by readjusting the shoulder shape or size you will lose stability of the pattern, may look good from outside but will have difficulty with fitting and comfort; and shoulder is base where your jacket seating on your body.
- When the jacket length is more than 1.5 inches longer or shorter, by shortening more than that need to change another seven crucial elements on the jacket which is not possible in ready to wear suits, I will cover this subject in my other article why is not possible.
- If the sleeves length is more than 1.5 inches longer or shorter, by shortening more than that means jacket length needs to be reduced more than 2 inches for average people, which I do not recommend. By doing that need to change the jacket pockets, waist, buttons positioning, etc., which is not possible to modify it on ready to wear jackets.
- Re-adjustment on lapels and the collar.
- This process will be costly and will destroy the general shape and look of the jacket because of the lapel and collar shape designed in proportion to the pattern.
- I do not recommend any alteration in jackets body structure, will be costly and for sure you never get right fit after touching the construction of the RTW jacket.
- Taking in more than 1.5-2 inches from jacket waist, more than that jacket chest will shift back and will create a problem on the shoulder, and the armhole, also jacket will take concave shape.
Other crucial aspects are weight and quality of the fabric used in RTW suits, usually made from primary wool materials or mix fibers up to super 100’s or 120’s. The thickness and weight of the material are crucial because of the climate factor. High thread count and premium quality fabrics do not use even in most of the high-end and luxury designers RTW suits.
The advantage of Ready to wear: Immediacy and relative affordability
drawbacks of ready to wear: Fit, quality of the fabrics and jacket construction
Made to Order (MTO)
Made to order is the same as ready to wear garment just having some customization options. Most of the time this term used for accessories like shoes, handbags, and ties. It means you pick a standard shoe last or garment style and decide on materials like fabrics, buttons, leather, colors without changing anything in a model, pattern or last.
Custom made, Made to Measure or Su Misura ( same meaning)
Custom made or made to measure a very general term which using for anything that related some form of the measurement. MTM suit is the worst option of the menswear in the majority of cases if an expert tailor does not make your body size modification and adaptation to the pattern.
Made to measure is set-up from RTW suits, it is same as ready to wear just taking a few measurements of your body and adapting to the ready to wear pattern, modifying those points on existing pattern making the suit unstable and never fits your body perfectly. Because every single detail on that pattern was calculated very well to work together in harmony for just one type of the body shape and for specific geographical areas men’s body shape, which built for it. By modifying a few points will destroy that harmony and stability of the pattern unless a master tailor does that by taking into consideration the functionality of each component. It looks like modifying only one tire of the car and making smaller or bigger.
In the majority of the cases no have tailor or master tailor involvement in this process. For that reason, I do not recommend this type of the suits for your wardrobe unless to order in sartorial designers who has own tailoring facility. Unfortunately, custom made (made to measure) is very popular online, which is the inferior version of the suits manufacturing. This kind of the outfits are good for who is not suit wearer and using once for funeral or wedding, and not recommended for professionals, because of no real tailor involvement in the manufacturing of these suits. Online and most of offline made to measure suit suppliers not using a real tailor for manufacturing process especially in pattern adaptation” which is the crucial element of the suit. They are using a graphic designer to do this job by using a CAD system.
I need to clarify one crucial point here; Starting from body measurements to the pattern modification and sawing, all people involved in this MTM processing, seeing the fabrics in 2 dimensional, a master tailor can think and create and form the materials in 3 dimensional for your body shape.
You may notice for body measurement some of MTM suppliers using 3D scanning machine, this is just for show purpose, and no have any impact on pattern making or fit, in the end. This machine giving you the measurement of the body and shape in 3 dimensional but cannot print the clothing in 3D like plastic or metal; again they will use only a few of those measurements data to modify the existing pattern manually. The function of this machine is to study average of body shape, collecting many data in short time and establishing the average size of the man’s body in the specific area. The market is full of wrong information and miss leading contents, which creating a lot of confusion and making hard for professionals to choose right products, of course, it is part of powerful fashion marketing strategy. Using these techniques also time to times introducing many new terms and words driving us into the grey area and creating a haven for designers massive sales.
As I mentioned Custom made suits may work well for who has symmetrical body shape and manufacturer using an accurate pattern for customization, and a master tailor does pattern readjustment. The custom made suiting process is same as re-adjusting the existing suits, like readjusting your older brother jackets to your size. The critical elements of the custom-made suit are the fit and construction, the fit will rarely be perfect, but you have some customization options like the shape of jacket lapels, the buttons, lining, and other small details may you can choose from manufacturer offer list to add.
Close your eye and ear for strong fashion marketers and influencers:
Majority of the suit wearers are confusing bespoke with custom-made suiting, also made to measure suits suppliers pretending they services like bespoke, this way they are confusing us more. Unfortunately, in North America we are not hearing the “tailor” word in the fashion market even less used in vocabulary and fashion influencer articles, instead, using “Designer”. The strong fashion marketers are investing lost money in building high imaginary value around this word.
A young generation even they do not know differences between tailor and designer and role of tailors in designers products. I will cover this subject in depth later; I would like to mention in the majority of the cases, even some of the luxury brand designers involvement in manufacturing and designing the men’s suits are minimal. Later on, I will surprise you with some of insider history.
A similar history is with eyewear. Luxottica is doing the entire eyewear development for most of the luxury designer brands, starting from designing to manufacturing no brand designers involvement in this process. The critical question may you will have is ” how much AUTHENTIC ?” we are purchasing X designer brand eyewear and paying the high-ticket price for it but not designed or made by the brand! For more detail about this shocking topic please click on this CBC 60 minutes report.
My hope is professionals educate themselves to build they wardrobe base on tangible value, not imaginary value.
Quality of Custom made (C.M) suits may vary.
Custom made suits can be found from $300 on none brand to high-end, and luxury designers brand up to $6,000. Both are using the same method to make the custom-made suit with one essential difference. In high-end sartorial designer manufacturer, when you order made to measure suit, tailor or master tailor in factory adopting your body size to an existing pattern, which it is perfect, all modifications will make by Taylor’s eye and by tailor control.
Unfortunately, the majority of custom-made suit suppliers manufacturing they suit in ready to wear mass production factories and using graphic designers to adapt the body size into the standard pattern, which is creating a significant problem because graphic designers no have an idea about the suit pattern, tailoring and men’s body shape or jacket functionality. They are using the CAD graphics system and modifying the pattern. They are not pattern-maker or tailor, merely graphic designers which they call a technician.
The custom-made suit is less expensive than a bespoke garment. It’s usually more expensive than ready to wear because it includes some modifications, additional customization and an improvement on the look. High-quality custom made suits; you can obtain only in sartorial designers how has own tailoring facility and from tailors, otherwise is compromised entirely.
Another important aspect is the construction of the custom-made suits before to order the custom-made suit you have to take in consideration following:
- Suits construction made in full, half canvassed or fused.
- Hand-basting or machine made canvassing on the chest, lapels, and on the collar
- The amount of hand craftsmanship will involve and which part of the jacket.
- The type of the fabrics, thread count, and fabric supplier. ( fabrics quality)
- Where will make the garment; this is important just because some countries have a high repetition of quality MTM suits manufacturing Like Italy and England.
- Who is taking your body measurement, Tailor, men’s body expert or just salesperson takes your measure?
Overall, made to measure is an excellent choice for only people who have symmetrical body shape and they are happy with the standard pattern fit suit and want to customize they garments.
The bespoke term comes from the word of “bespeak” means to ‘’speak for something’’ particular specification for creating a unique product. It may tailor to the customs, tastes, most of the time related to one garment or accessories made exclusively for one person.
Bespoke suit processing is entirely different than made to measure. In a bespoke suit never use ready and standard pattern. Your body measurements transferring directly to the fabric by the master tailor and cutting the materials and making the suits, or making the pattern from scratch by the tailor exclusively for you. Usually, bespoke suits involve more than 45 hours artisanal hand sewing, You can decide and choose any detail you want, but In made to measure usually you pick from suppliers catalog just a few simple options.
Unfortunately today many of made to measure and even ready to wear suit suppliers abusing the market and using the “bespoke” term for they non-bespoke products because this term not protected by trademark.
Bespoke Suits Quality is matter.
The bespoke garment should always fit perfectly but a good fit is not the only criteria for the perfect bespoke suit, there are some other essentials criteria you must pay attention when you order the bespoke suits.
- Experienced Tailor,
Any tailor can make the costume, but an only skilled master tailor can create comfortable bespoke suits, choose the tailor who makes the whole suits from start to the end. The bespoke suits are like art, lots of hand artistry craft involves in creating and forming process, You can have an excellent result when the entire suit is done all by the same tailor.
- Bespoke suits should be seen as an investment
You should consult with your tailor precisely following:
1) The purpose of the suit like, where you are gone wear
2) Your job and activity
3) A suit will be used for occasion or business, and how you would like to be seen by your partners or customers.
4) The role of the garment in your branding and positioning yourself
5) what kind of message you want to send out when you are wearing this suit( social appearance)
6) And the most crucial point is where is the role of this suit in your current wardrobe, this garment must to match and work in harmony with your wardrobe contents.
- Quality of fabrics
The cost of the bespoke suits is much higher than MTM and RTW, and your new garment will stay last long in your wardrobe, you have to consult with your master tailor and choose right fabrics which fit your personality and needs. Also, climate plays a crucial role in this choice.
- Opt for classic style for last long
Choose a classic style which not to be out of trend, like the notched lapel if it is for all-purpose, two buttons jacket, etc.
- Shoulder type
Opt for a Neapolitan and soft shoulder if you like to have light and soft structure, this way you can move more freely and obtain classic and sports look at the same time.
- Comfort and functionality of the Jacket (Hand basting Canvasing)
Hand basting canvas is the most delicate part of the handmade bespoke suits, which is the foundation for comfort and flexibility and longevity of the Jacket. Men’s body is getting expansion more than one size during the breathing and on the extreme movement (average one size 4 cm x 3.14=12.6 cm expansion in diameter).
The question is “How can create the jacket to have an extra 12 cm an extra room without changing the perfect fit and look of the blazer?
The answer is simple, ‘’ make hand basting canvasing on chest, collar, lapels and hand sewing the jacket.
Machine stitch is lock stitch and locking the fabric’s layers to the lining and interlining, and does not allow any movement and expansion of your jacket. Hand stitching structure provides wearer to have maximum free movement because hand stitch is loose and fabrics and inside the inner structure will move freely with body movement in harmony, of course, this process takes a lot of the time and this process considering is the engine part of the jacket.
This type of suit construction is creating functionality and also plays suspension role for the jacket, after few days wearing the blazer, canvas taking your body shape and blazer will seat correctly and form into your body shape like the second skin especially if used linen canvas.
- High Armscye
To obtain more free movement for your arms, ask your tailor to create armhole smaller and higher with armscye functionality, this Is the only way your tailor can create an extra free-movement for your arms, and moving your arms will not affect the body of the jacket, and will function separately.
- Body expert master tailor
The regular tailor will ask you what type of the suits you would like and by selecting the fabrics will start to make your costume. That Is not the way; you have to order your bespoke suit, there are two ways to order the right outfit in the right place.
1) Ordering a bespoke garment requires knowledge on your behalf.
You should learn all terms and futures mentioned above and ask your tailor the features and style, which you would like to have in your bespoke suits. A good tailor may guide you, but bespoke suit needs your direct involvement otherwise may they are not gone use that expensive artistry craft and futures in your garment if you do not request, to have specific details in your jacket you need to have the knowledge and educate yourself.
2) Meet with body expert, master tailor
A body expert will consult you about everything from your lifestyle, job, the purpose of the suits, your wardrobe, body behaviors … and than will create with your particular style for you and will explain everything about structure, craft, functionality, and comfort.
My Advice for professionals: Buy your suit from an expert instead of to buy from a salesperson.
When you decide to opt in any of the suit mentioned above, ask your suit maker or salesperson above details, let them to explaining what they know about the construction of the suits which they are selling to you, and you verify your supplier knowledge and honesty. This way you will choose the right garment in its real value. In my next article will explain the construction of each option and then will show you how to build most effective and exclusive wardrobe to serve you in every occasion with one of a kind, handmade bespoke products which will save you on money and on time “smart wardrobe building techniques for professionals.”
Ferruccio Milanesi is offering an exclusive option to build your unique wardrobe at once.
Smart wardrobe for five+five years plan for professionals
In this package, we are creating exclusively, necessary clothing and accessories for your wardrobe.
After profound consultation between you and our men’s body shape expert, master tailor, and fashion advisor will establish your unique style, colors, and fit. Next step is creating your exclusive pattern base on your body shape, business, social activity and body behavior, and then will create one of a kind clothing and accessories in Naples and Vancouver, all products are made by hand with passion and love with exclusive materials.
With this unique and smart wardrobe, you will have every day a unique, professional look and best fit which is the result of bespoke creation. It is one of our complete wardrobe plans, in this plan we are taking every single detail in consideration including your health, job, social activity, traveling, age, sports activity, body shape and your weight history as well as your existing wardrobe and history of each item in your current closet.
This package includes a five years plan, and all exclusively created products will stay last long in your wardrobe, and by adding the second part of the project after five years, you can extend your wardrobe to 10 years by adding some complimentary items.
In my next article will cover in -depth the advantage of this smart wardrobe and will convince you why building a bespoke wardrobe at once is the best option,
Some benefit of this wardrobe :
- Having your unique and authentic style
- Everything will make for you exclusively
- Will have best fit possible, The result of the bespoke creation
- one of a kind products
- luxury look and feel
- Economic, saving money and time
- All products will work together in harmony.
- Private fashion advice during all ten years
- Ten years of maintenance.
- Every six -month wardrobe analyzing and contents inspection
- The most exclusive products will take you in high-level social position
- The unique look will have a significant impact on your business success.
- We will have established color which will reflect your personality
- you will not have a matching problem
- Five and ten years you will not have a shopping problem.
- Your unique style will be classic for last long
- Seven days a week worldwide, traveling VIP Services, having exclusive customer pattern, as per customer request we can re-produce any products and ship to any location in the world in an emergency and prior your trip as well.
In this smart plan, no any additional purchase required for five and ten years,
These outfits are creating after profound consultation with you by our men’s body expert, master tailor and fashion advisor will take into consideration your Heath, losing or gaining and possible reshaping of the body.
And most important, your exclusive clothing and accessories will be created by the masters with passion and love in a unique way using traditional artisanal hand workmanship in Naples, Italy, and Vancouver.Vancouver.