Tailoring Process

Expert’s point of view

Tailoring to the individual means personalizing suits with mastery and cutting them with the utmost precision. Before cutting the fabrics, we meet with the wearer to consult with them and create a totally unique style based on their character, habits, behavior and special needs. Then our experts model the lines of the jacket which are drawn out on a unique pattern to meet the customer’s exacting requirements.

 Exclusive Fabrics

Choosing the right fabric is essential for creating timeless suits. Hundreds of exclusive and precious fabrics from windowpane to pinstripe and glen plaid are available in a wide variation of pattern and colours. Our experts explain the details of each fabric for a better understanding of their style and take the customer’s current wardrobe into consideration in order to match suits and accessories.

Our experts offer a major advantage for customers who are building their wardrobe from the beginning. Each purchase will have a very solid reasoning behind it. Every new added piece will be part of a precise plan. This way, all the customer’s wardrobe products will somehow be related to each other. We call this our “smart wardrobe building technique.”

Moving to the delicate cutting stage.

The Ferruccio Milanesi unstructured Neapolitan-style jacket needs precise cutting and special care during every single stage of manufacturing. Every manual gesture needs to be almost perfect.

The fabric of jacket structures such as the chest, lapels and collar is cut and basted by hand. The jacket is built around a free-floating canvas. Ferruccio Milanesi hand basting is totally unique; the stitches are small and in different directions in each portion of the canvas.

This exclusive technique results in a series of anatomically precise functionalities. While moving the body in different directions, the hand stitched structure naturally aligns to the same direction and creates maximum free movement for the wearer.

Pocket tacking

Pocket tacking is a very significant step which is created entirely by hand in an exclusive shape. This authentic Milanesi suit detail is one that is clearly noticeable from distance.

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Shoulder pads.

Our bespoke suits are shoulder pad free or have very light shoulder pads and a special cut to make the shoulder reverted and shifted toward a natural anatomic position. This provides the wearer with maximum comfort and mobility.

High armscye

The height and size of the armscye are a key element to any handmade bespoke jacket. Keeping in balance between the two is crucial. To increase comfort and ease of movement, the jacket needs to have a precise armscye cut. A narrow and high armscye creates optimal free movement on the wearer’s arms and keeps them more independent from the chest, shoulder and body of the jacket.

Collar and under-collar tacking

This step of our artwork is performed entirely by hand. Every single brilliant hand stitch exudes artistry while forming and shaping the collar.

 

Exclusive silk lining

Silk lining has always been a quintessential element of luxury suiting. This lining is an exclusive Milanesi design feature, adding extra value to our handcrafted suits

 

Cigarette shoulder

The cigarette sleeve comes out reflecting the natural position of the arm for optimal mobility and wearing ease.

 

Tacking the armholes

 Tacking the armholes in a natural shape and in harmony with the jacket and body movement requires Ferruccio Milanesi’s extraordinary expertise.

 

 

Signature skirt flare

The skirt flare cut jacket is exclusive to Ferruccio Milanesi suiting. This specific detail needs to be formed by a highly experienced tailor. Skirt flare cut jackets give the wearer a slimmed look – narrower on the waist and larger on the bottom in our signature skirt flare shape.

 

 

Milanese style buttonhole embroidery

Adding our Milanese style buttonhole embroidery is a very delicate step. 200-300 brilliant super fine hand stitches are placed using luxury silk thread with precise knot implementation, mastery and passion.

Ironing and shaping the jacket

This is the final stage of the Ferruccio Milanesi tailoring process. This step has the same importance as cutting and forming the suits. Ironing by master tailors is essential, our master tailors give the final shape to the jacket and model it with skillful handling.

Tacking the armholes

 Tacking the armholes in a natural shape and in harmony with the jacket and body movement requires Ferruccio Milanesi’s extraordinary expertise.